Paris hosts first modest fashion week amid hijab debates

By Ahmet Taş | Wise News Press

PARIS, FRANCE — The fashion capital of Paris hosted its first-ever Modest Fashion Week, bringing together approximately 30 international designers to showcase collections featuring loose-fitting garments, long silhouettes, and hijabs.

The event carries special significance in a country home to an estimated 5 to 7.5 million Muslims, where conservative clothing and religious attire frequently spark political debates and face restrictions in various public spaces. By bringing modest fashion to the heart of France, the organizers aimed to foster inclusivity and cater to a rapidly expanding global consumer base.

A conscious choice for international designers

The decision to hold the event in the French capital was highly intentional for many participants. Rukaiya Kamba, the creative director of the Nigeria-based brand Flaunt Archive, stated that presenting her collection in Paris was a conscious move to claim space in the global fashion narrative. Young designers echoed this sentiment, expressing that seeing their modest designs on a Parisian runway evoked a strong sense of an inclusive cultural environment.

The organization behind the event was spearheaded by Özlem Şahin, an entrepreneur of Turkish descent. Şahin emphasized the city's potential by describing Paris as one of Europe's leading modest fashion capitals.

Nature-inspired romantic aesthetics

The runway at Hôtel Le Marois, a historic mansion situated just off the Champs-Élysées, was heavily influenced by floral motifs and nature-inspired color palettes. Hicran Önal, the founder and designer of the Turkey-based brand Miha, highlighted that romance was the key theme of her collection. Her flowing dresses seamlessly blended shades of turquoise and blue with natural floral pinks.

Indonesian designer Nada Puspita followed a similar thematic path but opted for simpler, more minimalist lines. Meanwhile, Aisa Hassan, the designer behind the Australian brand Asiyam, also drew inspiration from nature but anchored her collection in distinctly warmer tones. She utilized deep greens and autumnal reds, completing the looks with fedora hats as a nod to her Australian roots.

Streetwear influence and Gen Z appeal

The softness present in Hassan's and Önal's collections stood in stark contrast to the bold, streetwear-inspired aesthetics that are gaining traction in the industry. Collections from French brands Soutoura and Nour Turbans featured black, jewel-toned, and excessively baggy garments, heavily influenced by Generation Z street fashion.

This shift aligns with broader market trends, as global sportswear giants like Nike and Adidas are increasingly producing similar apparel lines to meet the demands of conservative consumers. Nour Turbans and Asiyam particularly stood out with their innovative approaches to head coverings. In one striking look, a runway model wore a streetwear-style beanie layered directly over a traditional hijab.

The economic rise of modest fashion

The modest fashion industry has experienced exponential growth over the past decade. According to the research and advisory firm DinarStandard, consumer spending directed toward this type of fashion is projected to surpass the $400 billion mark by next year.

While the sector initially catered almost exclusively to Muslim women, it is now increasingly appealing to consumers from other religious communities, as well as secular individuals who simply prefer more conservative or loose-fitting styles.

Navigating French secularism and bans

Hosting the event in Paris is particularly notable given France's strict interpretation of secularism. Headscarves and other conspicuous religious symbols were banned in French state schools over 20 years ago. More recently, the government also prohibited students from wearing loose, full-length dresses such as abayas in educational institutions.

Despite these societal hurdles, Fatou Doucouré, the founder and creative director of Soutoura, expressed immense pride in the Paris event. She noted that while she had faced difficulties wearing a hijab in France in the past, she no longer feels hindered today.

"Showcasing my collection in Paris gives me the feeling that Muslim women who cover their hair or dress modestly can take on any role in society."

Burkini on the runway

The Turkish swimwear brand Mayovera also took to the Parisian runway to showcase burkinis—a term coined from the combination of a burqa and a bikini. The inclusion of modest swimwear was a bold statement, considering that the burkini remains explicitly banned in the vast majority of public swimming pools across France, although it is legally permitted on public beaches.

A shifting cultural landscape

The atmosphere among the audience reflected a sense of cautious optimism. A young French attendee of Malian descent shared that, having previously faced discrimination for wearing a hijab, the event brought her immense joy. Seeing international designers celebrated in the heart of Paris made her feel that she would never consider leaving France.

Another spectator observed a tangible shift in the French cultural climate, noting that the hijab feels less like the center of endless political debates than it once did. The attendee added that, even on the streets, people are slowly beginning to look past the headscarf to see the individuals and their personal style.

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